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What Mr. Neal and others like him do want to cook are full-flavored versions of the food they learned at their parents’ elbows, and in influential local kitchens like Crook’s Corner, Nana’s and Magnolia Grill, where many of them polished their craft. The tender cornmeal butter cakes at Watts Grocery are like a combination of a French financier and Southern spoon bread; at Six Plates, the slick-sounding sautéed crawfish on red pepper polenta with tomato broth is a take on shrimp and grits, the Carolina coastal classic.
Mr. Brinkley, the farmer, says that his family’s farm, and many others, might not have made it through the loss of the tobacco cash crop without the lucky coincidence of the rise in the local food movement. Now, chefs compete over his lady peas, pink-eyed peas and butternut squash — a relatively exotic vegetable here,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], he said, where the sweet potato was once the king of the winter table.
Then again,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], “We’re also working hours I never would have dreamed of,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych],” he said, adding that raising such diverse crops and marketing them has more than doubled his workload. He makes weekly appearances at the Durham farmer’s market. Mr. Brown, of Piedmont, said that the farmers there are treated like rock stars, that dogs and babies abound and that hipsters mingle with hippies.
As Mr. Brinkley said, “It’s a lot different from dropping off your tobacco at the station and picking up your check.”
Snus is finely ground tobacco that doesn’t require spitting, unlike traditional smokeless tobacco. Traditional snuff is more popular in the U.S., selling about 1.2 billion cans last year, compared with about 20 million cans of snus, Flaherty said.
Swedish Match, Europe’s largest maker of smokeless tobacco,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], is playing catch-up in the U.S. Altria Group Inc., the largest tobacco producer, is distributing Marlboro snus nationally this month. No. 2 Reynolds American Inc. began selling Camel snus across the country a year ago.
Swedish Match collected 30 percent of its 14.2 billion kronor ($2 billion) in 2009 revenue from snus and snuff,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], according to a securities filing Feb. 24. North America accounted for 37 percent of total sales.
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“It used to be that South Africans of all incomes smoked,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych],” he comments. “But now, with the costs involved, it’s almost as if smoking’s become more exclusive. And the people who can afford to smoke these days tend to be the people who can afford to spend money on higher-end products – hence their penchant for cigars….”
Wesley agrees that harsh anti-smoking legislation may have inadvertently “sparked” higher sales of cigars in South Africa. He says he sees more “casual” smokers abandoning cigarettes in favor of cigars – especially “small but top quality” varieties.
“I think their feeling is that a pack of cigarettes is so expensive these days that they may as well spend their money on fewer, but higher quality, cigars,” Wesley explains.
Affluent South African cigar smokers shield themselves from the harsh anti-smoking laws by enjoying their habit at home or in exclusive cigar bars and clubs, where the owners buy a special,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], expensive license that permits their patrons to smoke on the premises.